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It
Ain't Easy Being Me
30 June 2008
Within a few
days, The Old Codger will be living in a virtual "ghost
town." The stores shelves on campus are almost empty
as the merchants send stock back to their suppliers.
The idea of a "clearance sale" is not part of the equation
or quite possibly, even in the vocabulary of the Chinese.
Students are slowly evacuating the campus for their homes.
Soon, all that will be left is a skeleton staff and only a
couple of teachers. A whole lot of peace and quiet,
and perhaps a bit boring, to say nothing about being
isolated.
There has been
a lot in the media lately about the security for the
Olympics - all the "do's and don'ts" as it were. Since
The Old Codger is staying in China during the Olympics, he
is not exempt from the security cautions. Tomorrow he
will be "visited and interviewed" by the local police who
want to be assured that The Old Codger poses no security
threats to the Olympics. The only threat that he poses
is to himself after a session at Captain's, so it should be
interesting. According to others that have already had
their interviews, it is a very simple thing. They
visit your apartment; ask what your plans are for August and
take your picture. Hence, nothing to lose any sleep
over. No water boarding. No bamboo shoots under
the finger nails. Kind of 'ho-hum' is the over all
assessment.
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Last week was a "free week" for The Old Codger,
which is always a welcome respite. Tuesday
afternoon, a free lunch and drinks provided by
the visiting parents of another teacher.
(Bless their hearts.) Wednesday afternoon,
another free lunch and drinks provided by the
Nantong Foreign Trade & Economic Cooperation
Bureau at a fancy restaurant. (The photo
to the right is course 1 of about 8 courses.)
More on the Nantong Foreign Trade Bureau later. |
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Wednesday
evening, another free dinner and drinks at a Chinese
teachers home. That was a totally different experience
to say the least. Thursday evening, another free dinner and
drinks sponsored by the University for all the foreign
teachers at a local hotel. On Friday, a trip to
Nanjing, the capital of Jiangsu Province, again sponsored by
the Nantong Foreign Trade Bureau. Then, to wrap up the
week in style, a dinner and drinks sponsored by a foreign
company that is based in Shanghai.
This week is
shaping up good as well. Dinner tomorrow night with
the parents of some students who are willing to pay some big
RMB for tutoring them this summer.
So, with all
these free meals and drinks, how is it possible that The Old
Codger would insist, as the title of this letter says: It
ain't easy being me? Well, let me tell you...
Living with
Chinese logic: Ever since The Old Codger moved
into his apartment last September, he has had problems with
his electricity. On a regular basis, when he would use
his microwave oven, the fuse in the microwave would blow and
all of the circuit breakers in his apartment. Getting
the microwave fixed was usually a week long project - or
longer at times. After a few times of this, he decided
that perhaps the microwave was faulty, and attempted to get
a new one. This was like pulling hen's teeth.
Three different people came to look at the microwave, and
all offered to get it fixed. The Old Codger declined
the offers, pointing out that it would be about the 5th time
that it had blown a fuse. The real probing question
from one of the people that looked at it was: "You
sure you know how to use microwave?" The only possible
response was: "I've been using a microwave without
problems since before you were born." Eventually, a
new microwave was provided.
The new
microwave worked fine for two cooking sessions and then
"Zap." Same problems all over again. Time to diagnose
the problem. Conclusion: The outlets were
faulty, and a ground wire was occasionally crossing with a
live wire. Easy problem to fix. Extremely
difficult problem to try to explain to people that knew
nothing about electricity.
The Old Codger
had tried to explain and show the problem to the maintenance
man one morning, which involved using two Chinese girls that
could do a reasonable job of interpretation. That
proved to be an exercise in futility. The maintenance
man got out his circuit tester and showed The Old Codger
that there was now electricity. No problem. As
long as there was electricity after turning the circuit
breaker back on, there was no problem. Forget the fact that
once the microwave was fixed again, the problem would happen
again. It appeared that the solution is to simply keep
on fixing the microwave and not worry about the cause of the
problem.
Patience is a
pre-requisite for living in Asia and China. One must
always remember that there are solutions to every problem
and that finding the solution is going to require some
extremely creative thinking and planning. So, The Old
Codger decided to sit back, and wait until the time was
right to bring the problem up again. Of course, for
the duration, he was also without a microwave oven, but that
is a minor set back.
Knowing that
the biggest obstacle was language, The Old Codger decided to
sit down and write a detailed explanation, step by step, of
the problem and what was needed to fix the problem. He
wrote it of course in English and then used a translation
program to translate it into Simplified Chinese. He
then presented it the foreign teachers advisor, who is about
25 years old or so, and a female. The odds of her
knowing anything about electricity were equivalent to 10% of
the world's population saying with a straight face that
George Bush is a genius and linguistically capable of saying
five complete sentences in a row without any mistakes.
She took the
written explanation and told The Old Codger that she would
review it, That was the expected result. Ten
minutes later she calls The Old Codger.
Julia:
"About your problem. You should tell your
liaison. That is what we pay her for. To
take care of your problems."
TOC:
"I don't think she would understand it. Her
English is not good and she would not understand what I
am saying."
Julia:
"Your Chinese very bad. I not understand it."
TOC:
"You don't understand what is written or what the
problem is?"
Julia:
"Her English is much better than mine."
TOC:
"We need to fix the problem."
Julia:
"You talk to her. She take care of."
This is what
we call "passing the buck." A common solution to
problems throughout Asia. Decide that someone else
should handle the problem that you do not understand or want
to handle. Do not, under any circumstances, try
to figure something out on your own.
The next
morning the liaison came to investigate the problem.
It was patiently explained to her, slowly and clearly.
She said that she understood, but somehow the blank look on
her face defied that statement. Her known background,
which is very far removed from the building trades, also
belied that statement as well. After a bit more
discussion, albeit a bit one sided, she reached a decision:
"It will take too much work to fix. You move to new
apartment."
So, on
Saturday the problem was resolved. The Old Codger
moved to a new apartment. Of course, so far, there
don't seem to be any problems in the new apartment, other
than one light that doesn't work. He has decided that
he will wait a while and recover from moving before
attempting to have that minor problem fixed. Heaven
knows what the decision will be. It ain't easy being
me.
A Student
Speaks Out: The Old Codger received a text message
on his phone the other day from a student from last term
that he had spoken to briefly. The text stated:
"Nice talking to u. Ur the best teacher I have never
met n it is not flattery. :-)" Hmmm. Since she
never met The Old Codger, he must be chopped liver. It
ain't easy being me.
The Foreign
Trade Bureau: Given that The Old Codger's students
have never met him, it should be a credible statement that
The Old Codger spends a lot of his time sitting around
minding his own business. Those who truly known him
will no doubt strongly support that statement: "Oh
yeah. That is The Old Codger. Minds his own
business all the time. Sits around all the time
minding his own business."
So, The Old
Codger has been sitting around since arriving here in China,
minding his own business, when out of the blue, he gets an
e-mail from a girl that works at the Nantong Foreign Trade
and Economic Cooperation Bureau. Here in China, there
is a lot of interest in foreign trade and there are more
foreign trade programs run by the government than you can
shake a stick at. He is invited to attend a meeting
with some people to discuss promoting Nantong to foreign
visitors. The reason for the invitation was the
writing that The Old Codger has done on his web site.
Fair enough.
The Old Codger
goes to the meeting the next afternoon at his branch office,
Captain's. (Business is best discussed over a cold
beer at the very least, though in China it also usually
includes an elaborate dinner or lunch as well.) At the
meeting was the girl from the Foreign Trade Bureau and a
young man who stated that he worked for a company in
Nanjing. They are publishing a magazine to be handed
out for free to people in Nantong promoting Nantong, and
wanted The Old Codger to write for them. He looks at
everything and tells them that what they are doing is not
going to appeal to the foreigners in Nantong, nor most
likely the businesses that cater to foreigners who would be
possible advertisers in the magazine. The Old Codger
then told them about another way that they could go about
doing the whole thing, which got their interest all worked
up. They loved the ideas that were presented.
Loved them so much that they invited The Old Codger to a
party on Saturday afternoon at a Chinese bar in Nantong,
promising free beer.
The offer of
free beer was enough to motivate The Old Codger to go to the
party on Saturday. It was being held in a true Chinese
bar that is reportedly the first corporation in Nantong.
The bar is about 25 feet underground - beneath a parking lot
and at least one street. It is massive in size from
all indications. The Old Codger wasn't able to see
everything, but there were hallways and rooms all over the
place. It was also very damp and musty, and after
being there a short time, The Old Codger could envision some
fairly serious upper respiratory problems surfacing at some
point in the very near future. Apparently floods were
common place in the facility, as there were wet floors and
carpets throughout the place. A Hazardous Materials
team would have had a field day down there in a Western
country. Since the beer was free, and it would be
impolite (really, it would be - an insult to one's hosts) to
want to leave citing potential health problems, The Old
Codger made a mental note to take at least a double dosage
of Amoxicillin (an anti-biotic which attacks upper
respiratory diseases) at the earliest possible time, and
stuck it out for about 3 hours.
The "master
plan" was that the young man's bosses from Nanjing would
come to Nantong the next week to discuss a bit of a business
partnership with The Old Codger to implement his ideas, all
for the betterment of Nantong. The arrangements for
this were all completed over the phone, all in Chinese, so
The Old Codger really has no idea of what was being said.
Not speaking the language often will leave one out in the
cold, and more or less at the mercy of one's hosts.
The word "victim" may come to the minds of some who are
familiar with Asia and not understanding the lingo.
On Wednesday
morning about 10:00, The Old Codger gets a phone call from
another lady with the Foreign Trade Bureau, telling him that
he will be attending a lunch at about noon. This
method of notification is an appropriate way to invite
someone to a function in Asia. Kind of takes all the decision
making out of the process for the invitee, but, as we say,
TIC - This Is China. (Same philosophy exists in
Thailand as well.) A car came and collected The Old
Codger and took him to a very quality Chinese restaurant in
Nantong, called Tong Private Dish. The
restaurant was very well appointed, and the food was, well,
the absolute best Chinese food that The Old Codger has had
in Nantong.
Present at the
meal, along with the Vice Director of European and US
Section, Investment Promotion Center of the Nanjing Foreign
Trade and Economic Cooperation Bureau were two people from
the company in Nanjing - both editors of some sort.
There was very little discussion about the "job opportunity"
- basically just a casual mention. During the lunch,
The Old Codger was informed that he would be taken to
Nanjing on Friday to meet with the Director of the company.
Friday
morning, as expected, a car came to take The Old Codger and
the local company representative to Nanjing. It was
his first trip there so he was looking forward to it a bit.
It is about a 270 km (165 miles) which took about 3 and a
half hours. Upon arrival in Nanjing, The Old Codger was
almost immediately ushered into a meeting room
The introductions were minimal and quite perfunctory.
No one was wasting much oxygen saying much of anything.
The Old Codger
was asked to present his ideas to the accumulated company
people, which he began to do. After about two minutes
he was cut off, and invited to look at what the company was
doing. First thing that they showed him was all of
their demographic statistics. Of course, their
demographics were based on their business experiences in
Nanjing and Suzhou (Sue Joe: a city near
Shanghai which is known as the 'Oriental Venice' because 42%
of the city is covered by water). There is a very
distinct distinction between those two cities and Nantong.
Those cities are considered to varying degrees to be
"cultural centers" whereas Nantong is largely considered to
be an "industrial center." The foreigners that come to
Nantong are primarily ship workers, and "culture" to them is
a good "piss up" ('drunk' for the Americans) on a Friday
and Saturday night. This could be a reason that The
Old Codger fits in so well in Nantong...
Anyway, it
became fairly quickly obvious to The Old Codger that they
believed that they had the best product and that they would
like him to write for their publication - things like food
and restaurant reviews, cultural things and interviews with
interesting people in Nantong - which there may very well be
some of, but not known to him, and so forth. The only
problem is that The Old Codger doesn't write about stuff
like that, and has no desire or intention to even try to.
Food, for example, is something to be eaten, not written
about in twenty paragraphs full of glowing and often
pretentious adjectives. In any event, the job offer
was declined.
The company
then took The Old Codger out to lunch. Upon looking at
the menu, he decided very quickly that the food selection
was not going to be to his liking. The offerings were
things like cow brains, cow stomach, pig entrails and so
forth. The Pizza Hut around the corner seemed to be
much more appealing despite the fact that the words
"Chinese" and "pizza" do not belong in the same sentence.
After the lunch, they informed The Old Codger that they had
to have a meeting, and that he could, if desired, wait in
their office for the meeting to be over. He opted
instead to wander around town for a bit.
Two hours
later, The Old Codger received a phone call and was advised
that he could take a bus back to Nantong at either 6 o'clock
or 8 o'clock. His reaction was predictable and
extremely diplomatic: "What in the hell are you
talking about?" A face to face conversation soon ensued.
The car that
The Old Codger had came to Nanjing in had gone back to
Nantong already. The company would tell him where the
bus station was and he could go whenever he wished to.
Bye-bye.
This of
course, was not exactly agreeable to or with The Old Codger.
At that point, he set aside all pretenses of diplomacy and
got straight to the point. The company had "appointed"
a fellow American to discuss the matter with The Old Codger.
He was quickly informed that it was a "piss poor way to
treat a visitor - to bring him to a strange city, and then
just dump him off in the middle of the city and tell him to
get home on his own." The conversation went on, back
and forth, with the poor company representative claiming to
be just the 'messenger.' Well, The Old Codger had
heard that excuse before, and he really didn't care.
The 'messenger' was going to have to get something
arranged. After some going around and around, the
company agreed to pay taxi fare in both Nanjing and Nantong,
as well as the bus fare. All that The Old Codger would
have to do is send the company the receipts. No - that
would not work. The Old Codger wanted cash up front.
More going around and around.
Things started
getting complicated about that time. The Nantong
representative that had come down to Nanjing with The Old
Codger would accompany him back, and pay for everything.
The rub was that he would not be going back until 8:00.
No good. The Old Codger was not amenable to waiting
around for another 4 hours waiting for that to happen.
More going around and around. Eventually, the decision
was made that the Nantong representative would accompany The
Old Codger at 5:30 PM.
At 5:s0 The
Old Codger and the Nantong representative left the office.
If you think that things would go smoothly after that -
guess again. The bus station is in an inconvenient
location, and cab drivers do not like to go there during
"rush hour." As a result, it took exactly one hour to
finally catch a cab. The 6:00 bus to Nantong was long
gone by then. Got to the bus station and discovered
that the next bus to Nantong was at 7:20. Finally,
things were looking up.
The rest of
the story: On the way back to Nantong, The Old
Codger was finally able to make sense of everything that had
happened. Putting the pieces together was not exactly
easy given that the Nantong representative barely can speak
English. Apparently, the Foreign Trade Bureau convinced the
company in Nanjing to promote Nantong, and had considerable
input in placing local representatives with the company.
The Foreign Trade Bureau wanted the company to hire The Old
Codger, so they were willing to do so, but without changing
their original ideas and plans. The company pretty
much has to go along with what the Bureau says in order to
have permission to publish in Nantong. Ultimately, had
The Old Codger gone to work for the company, the company
most likely would have considered him to be the "token
foreigner from Nantong."
In the end,
there were a lot of twists and turns in the plot. In
reflection, The Old Codger was strongly reminded of the
movie "The Sting." Fortunately, albeit
after a bit of arguing, fighting and posturing, his only
loss was a bit of time, which means he wasn't stung too bad.
No doubt, knowing that this is China, there will be another
session and chance in the future.
Through it
all, The Old Codger can tell everyone, without hesitation,
"It ain't easy being me." Life in Asia
can certainly be interesting.
The Old Codger

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